Tomorrow is also suppose to be my day off, but I and others are flying to the very northern Province of Samagan, near the border of Turkmiistan, to undertake an assessment of the horrible conditions. Apparently this province is one of the poorest areas and has been hit by drought. We (me) are going to assess the ‘lack of’ water and sanitation situation and then possibly write a proposal for funding, to try and bring water and sanitation here to a limited targeted population of about 5000 people. I had a meeting with the Swedish Embassy yesterday afternoon and they might be interested in further funding. The Swedes are already funding a project with us for 4000 internally displaced (IDP’s) in a camp, 30 minutes outside of Kabul…which has gone off the rails, thanks to the Ministry of Defense (MOD) who at the last minute pulled the plug on us drilling boreholes and building bathrooms, because they did not want these IDP’s on their land, so next week I have to go there and try to change their minds, in the mean time I have authorized the trucking of water to storage tanks in the camp, which stats in a few days, so atleast they can have some water….oh yeah, I am not suppose to talk about work today, oops! I will out of touch for the next 5 days, cross your fingers for us all and all little prayers all welcome!! Ciao ciao!!
kevito

First Day Off

It’s Friday and my first day off and it’s very welcomed. I am sitting the ‘Flower Café’, which international people (Expats) frequent because of the good food and free internet service, which is better than the office. It is situated on an empty street and 3 armed guards stand outside the concrete wall and barb wire. This is my first time here. Yesterday morning was interesting, thanks to a suicide car bombing downtown, which was targeting against a convoy of International Security Forces. The driver never hit the convoy, but did kill 6 poor ditch cleaners. I was in a meeting with UNICEF and other NGO’s when it happened, we were all locked down for 3 hours afterward s. Welcome to Kabul…..
I have been working 10 to 12 hour days, coming home dead tired. Still feeling stressed and overwhelmed by everything, but at least I have my health (touch wood ). Issue of human resources and budget are not my specialty and are taxing. Because I am the new guy and because no one in the water sector has been here, I get to hear all the frustrations. Although these people are great, giving and caring, they do complain of low wages. My Project Manager for example only makes $600 US a month. …by 10 PM, I am in bed, falling asleep is easy, even though the bed is not very comfortable, sags in the middle and what I would do for a real pillow. I seem to always wake up at around 3 ish, which pisses me off, eventually get back to sleep only to wake up at 5:30 – 6:00. The sun comes up at 7:00 and my room faces the morning sun, which is very nice. I have been here a week now and despite the rather un sanitary conditions, I have not had any diarrhea or stomach ache. I wash my hands up to 4 times a day – hard to keep them clean, as the dirt, dust, fumes is everywhere. I have been eating well , we have a very good male cook that prepares lunch and dinner, although we are never here to eat it when he prepares it, so it sits here waiting for us. He makes an awesome soup. I have been eating goat daily, lots of potatoes and rice. Lunch food is usually goat kabobs and only the men eat together. Fruit is plentiful, although it comes form Pakistan. Breakfast is usually cereal and flat bread with strong Arabic coffee. During the day I drink tea..they love their tea here! As I am living the French (4 of them – 3 women; Anne, Alice, Valeri and 1 guy Nick) there is wine here and from France no less. Beer is available also, so it’s all good. Two nights ago more French came over to the house for a dinner party of Rachlette cheese and potatoes and dry pork….yes, pork that was brought in by the French army, as one guy has connections. It was very enjoyable to meet these new people and indulged in wine and cheese, just wished I could understand French. We sit on big cushion around a big low table. One of the guests (Fred) has lived here for 6 years, which I was so surprised to hear. The noise of helicopters and planes are constant and all times of the day, most annoying. Upon advice, I am growing my beard, but not my hair and today will go shopping for some Afghan sweaters and the very common scarf, so I will slowly try to assimilate into Afghan. The supply of electricity sucks!! We have to rely on the generator for a few hours at night and I have only experienced the other source twice. The water supply for the house is a private well and we have many problems with pressure and the pump. Despite having a shower in the bathroom, the ole squat and bucket method is becoming common. The boss (Anne) has noticed my stress and has ordered me to not do anything with work today, so we will go jogging at a secure indoor track at a German built school and then play tennis later on in some run down court. I am starting to learn some Dari words, and to my surprise Dari is not Arabic, but Persian!!

First Field Trip

The first field trip took me north of the city for about hour to a city called Charikar. I was with Nicolas, Lisa and Nasrulla travelling in our unmarked van with a guard car in front, albeit the guard had no weapons! We were enroute to assess a new water supply and distribution project, funded by the European Union, Emergency Fund (ECHO). Afghans are retuning to the city and a new area of the city was being prepared to settle them and ACF is going to be organizing the water supply. EU and ACF are involved because the Afghan government has no capacity to do this. The plan is to capture a spring at the base of the mountain, direct it to a reservoir, filter by sand and distribute to tap stands. Currently, 1000’s of people use the open canal for the source supply, even though it is very contaminated. Driving through the kaos of the city was most fascinating, an endless hustle and bustle of people, car, animals. The extent of just how poor the area was became so evident. For security reasons I am not allowed to take photos from the van in the city or in crowed areas and never at police or military of which there were numerous. The road to Charikar is the only safe road (relatively speaking) out of Kabul, however the military presence was there with several small tanks and soldiers based along the road along with several check points. During the Taliban era, this region was almost wiped out with the numerous battles that were had. Driving along, there were hundreds of mud homes, many of which were destroyed and thousands of people killed by the Talibs. We came to a traffic circle, with a small grassed enclosure in the middle. Nasrulla told us that during the Taliban rule, this circular grassed area was where many innocent people were publically hung. The traffic here is NUTS and there are no rules or at least not followed. . and it was amazing how we just blended in. Shop keepers, small markets, were everywhere. Many women fully covered black outfits, with only a small slit to see out or in fully blue burkas with a mesh screen to see., f were shopping or walking with small children.
Upon driving up the hillside, to get a view of the spring, numerous young kids were walking up and down the steep hill with plastic water jugs (20 L) fetching water from the reservoir building. Some were lucky to have a wheel-barrow, others were carrying the jugs by hand, which when full are very heavy. Some would walk up to 3 km and twice a day to get water! Another source of water is from ancient underground tunnels called ‘karez’, the one we visited was 200 years old. Ground water is collected further upslope and channel into the deep tunnels. On the surface, access is gained through a small hole (like a well) and people (kids) collect water via a rope and bucket. The one in the photo is used by 400 families. ..hard to believe. ACF wants to capture this water via a well pump and direct it to a reservoir and then distribute it. As well all ACF projects, the eventual goal is to build the capacity of the Afghans themselves to manage the new infrastructure themselves.

The Tea Party

Lisa from Paris, organized a staff tea party for all of the WASH (water, sanitation and hygiene) staff from Kabul, in honor of my arrival to Afghanistan. It had been 7 months without a WASH Coordinator and my presence here is most welcomed. Here I introduced myself (via a translator) and got to meet the many other people; Engineers, Sanitation, Home Workers, Health, etc. The welcome and generosity of these people was most special. Several of the men, took turns to welcome me and to give thanks for my arrival. They spoke with true feelings of appreciation and gratitude, knowing how difficult the conditions are in their country and how hard it is to find international staff to come here and help them. I was given a hand made wool hat, scarf and gloves, while everyone stood up and clapped for me. I was really blown away by this honest and compassionate gesture. Afghan people are very sincere and incredibly friendly. Upon arrival at work, everyone (men) shake hands and hugs each other, with a big smiles and conversation, like they had not seen each other for weeks, even though it was only yesterday when they worked side by side. A far cry from my office life in Canada, where people tend to say nothing in the morning and hide in their office….with a don’t bother me mentality. The culture and customs of the people are so rich here and I like it very much. Despite the lack of basic services, poverty, cold, and incredible struggles of the conflict these people can find moments of happiness.

November 22

I awoke to sunny day, but cold morning. Went outside into the court yard and introduced myself to the 2 guards. And then another man came out, then another, until there were 7 of them all huddled around me, the new guy they had herd so much about. “Mr. Kevin” I am now known to them. I joked with them, and tried to pronounce their names -making them all laugh. This was good and it was nice to get off on the right foot with them all. The day was filled with lots more briefings – I am going to be one very busy person!!! I supervise two Afghan Project Managers who both have between 8 and 12 staff under them. Anne, Head of Mission took me out for lunch to only one of three ‘validated’ restaurants where we can eat. Of course leaving the house there are numerous security procedures to go through. Must use the cell phone to describe where and when we go. The restaurant was surrounded by police, thus it was approved to go to...weird! We have no internet in the house, nor reliable electricity!

Welcome to Kabul

How can anything exist here? So much dessert and rock! I landed at KIA (Kabul International Airport) at 10:30 AM on Nov. 22, after a 2 hour flight from Dubai and after waiting for 7 hrs in the Dubai airport – another night of no sleep! Although the main Dubai airport was a blend of fantasyland and Disneyland on steroids, I had to go to Terminal 2, a 10 minute taxi drive away; and here it was not so glamorous! but in fact very basic I had to wait here with many soldiers and locals. I was carrying my new laptop that HQ had given to me, but didn’t realize they had also put a mobile hand radio in the case. When the computer bag went through the xray machine, it picked up on the radio, which for some reason the security dudes did not like. My reaction to the discovery of the radio ...they also did not like…. Lets just say there was lots of drama over the radio. Security ended up giving it the flight crew and told me to get it when I landed in Kabul….easier said than done. I had a window seat and was able to see the landscape all the way here. Endless brown sand, dry river beds, mountains and some occasional snow on the peaks, that’s about it!! The city of Kabul is very spread out with over 3 million people. It was also brown but the straight lines of roads and thousand square plots of building gave it away! The people have started building up the mountains as well. Upon landing, we went by by a pile of destroyed airplanes, reminders of the past. The airport was nothing fancy what so ever. As soon as I entered the building, I had to join the queue for passport control. A rag tag of police in gray wool uniforms with guns sat behind the simple counters. The queue moved very slowly. The actual process of getting through custom was very easy, I don’t think he even looked at me…just gave me the stamp. Finding the luggage was an adventure as all the luggage was just dumped in a room and it a free for all by everyone to get their bags. Wandering around were plain clothes US contract soldiers armed to the teeth. I then had to find the mobile radio, which took 20 minutes and I had 5 people trying to help me. Not making any progress, I was about to give up, when it finally appeared. With luggage and radio in hand I had to walk to the third parking lot, as no vehicles were allowed near the airport entrance for obvious reason. Nicholas (Logistics Coordinator) and the driver were waiting for me and I was warmly welcomed to Kabul and jumped into the unmarked van. I was so incredibly tired, but the excitement of arriving kept me going. The 20 minute drive to the house took us through Kabul and the reality of poverty and chaos was self evident. I was surprised to see so many women (fully covered in their burkas) begging with children in hand on the pot hole dirt roads. In some ways, the scenes reminded me of India. I was immediately given my new code name “Alpha 4” is my new identity. I arrived at my new home, also un marked, and behind a big gate. The place is big with 7 rooms. There was grass, albeit brownish, and trees and a garden. I received a hero’s welcome by Anne (Head of Mission) and Lisa (Wat/San Tech Adviser from Paris) and Alice (Adminsitrator)….all of them from France. They were so happy I finally made it. The house is made mud, yes mud that has hardened and has settled in many locations, giving the whole place a slanted look. It is quote unique and I ‘ll take more photo later. An hour later (dead tired) I was introduced to Tahare (My Afghan Project Manager from Ghor Province) who was flown into Kabul to give briefings on his project to Lisa and I. I could barely keep my eyes open, but for 2 hours I listened to him. He was genuine, soft spoken, his face weathered from years of harsh living. His English was good, for just learning it recently. He clearly liked his job and told me he looks forward to working with me and being a good employee. In Ghor Province, we (ACF) have several water and sanitation projects going on, unfortunately the security situation is not very good there. Although there was no electricity (common) I got to eat, had a beer, called home to Whitehorse and to mother to say I was ok and then crashed in my new room. Finally my brain could relax a little and I slept for almost 15hours.

Overweight!!

Who would of thought that 35 lbs excess luggage would cost almost $1000 CDN!!. I was shocked and was not about to pay it. I went back and forth with several people. Actually, went through my bags and got rid of books and misc stuff to lower my weight. I could only reduce the weight by 4 lbs and needed everything else. I eventually pleaded for compassion, explaining I was about to risk my life to help save other peoples life for 1 year in a was zone and as a volunteer could this wealthy airline please cut me some slack, I became emotional from the lack of sleep and anxiety. The big cheese lady then came over, talked with the staff and to my surprise she waived the oversized fine  Happy Happy!! I was granted my ticket and proceeded to security. What an ordeal in hell to get out of Paris – next stop Dubai where I need to find my next ticket to Kabul on a UN charter. I need sleep so bad !!

The Hell of Leaving Paris

I had a feeling this was not going to work out. I didn’t get to leave the office until 5:00 and had 2 hours to get to the airport and check in. I was in the far south and needed to get to the far north of the city. Picked up my luggage at the hotel and then made a bee line to the metro station, of course it was rush hour and the metro was busy. Me, with my over sized luggage and not speaking French did not go well on the metro. I also needed to change subway trains four times – not fun! On the second change over, when the train just stops, I learn that the there is a strike by the metro workers and they were currently ‘working to rule’. Not what I wanted to here and I try and to figure out how to get to the airport another way. I ask, but nobody around me was willing to help me. I had to yell out to the train (in English of course) for some help. Low and behold, it was a Canadian couple from Edmonton (Christopher and Annette) , some 10 m away, who stepped forward to help me….what a god send thought. They gave me an alternative suggestion, which meant catching different subways and then a bus. It was complicated, but I needed to do it. I thanked them, said goodbye and left the train. I worked my way to the other station and get on the train, when to my surprise, there are Chris and Annette, who decided to help me get to the airport, knowing that the route was complicated…god bless Canadians! We all take the train to another few stations, while running to get there and then work our way upstairs to the surface. It was so cool, to the Eiffel tower all light up on in the distance. Unfortunately, the bus station was for a different airport. By this time, I am soaking wet from sweat and exhausted with the weight of my luggage. With 30 minutes to go, the time to take an expensive taxi had arrived, even though I had no money left, and hoping he would take my Visa card, but I was still a long ways from the airport. I said thank you and goodbye once again. The cab ride cost $120 CDN, of which I had to find an ATM machine at the airport. When I finally found the check in counter for Emirates Air, it was empty. I had missed check in by 40 minutes.
I called my ACF contact to inform them and then tried to get to a new ticket for the next day, which I was able to do at no extra fee. I also needed to find an airport hotel – the cheapest was $210 US. I was so tired when I got the hotel I hit the bed immediately, but in 2 hours I was awake again and could not go back to sleep, till about 0400, only to get up 0900 to work my way back to the airport.

Nov 19th

Thanks to jet lag and anxiety I didn’t get to sleep until 0700 this morning, slept in and missed the alarm clock for 9:00 and missed my first meeting of the day…. A long day about security then proceeded. It was drilled into my head, this will be a difficult and dangerous mission, only second to Somalia. The activity will be covert and at no time can the logo of ACF be shown. They have bought local cars (instead of the usual white SUV’s) to try and blend in. Next month we are moving the office to get off the main street. Security trumps everything now…. I met with the director for what seemed like an interview as to why do I want to go to Afghanistan …. I reminded her that I was asked to go and accepted. I am not even aloud to talk about the political or security situation in Afghan on my blog. I was reminded that at anytime I do not feel comfortable or unsecure; I can ask to leave Afghanistan – no questions asked.

Nov. 18th, ACF Briefings

Up at 0400, wide awake ! , while the rest of Paris sleeps. I killed time before my briefings started at 8:oo AM. Still dark, I walked around the neighborhood. By 6:00 a café had opened up and I got to have that first cup of café aux lait…yummy!! Back in the ACF office I have more briefings with the staff and finally meet the water guy. Dr. Jean Lapegue, who has been with ACF for 10 years and to Afghanistan many times, including being in country right after 911. “You are going to love Afghanistan”, he said, the people are so friendly and genuine. An hour with Jean, and I am overwhelmed with responsibility and what is expected of me….holy crap! I am going to be busy and it will take months to learn the ropes all the while supervising 2 key local Project Managers. He loads me up with dozens of technical documents!! He shows his photographs of the country side….WOW!! Stunning! incredible images and I get goose bumps looking at them all. By 3:00 PM I am finished for the day and very tired. Another day awaits, and then I will catch my plane to Dubai at 10:00 PM.

Paris – November 17th

Some 16 hours later (4 hr layover in Chicago) I arrived in Paris, just as the morning sun was breaking through and reflecting on the Eiffel Tower and Paris itself…it was a beautiful sight from the air! It is always good when one’s luggage arrives!! I then took the metro to the ACF headquarters which was on the south end of the city. Fortunately, Paula and I were here in the spring and learned how to use the Paris metro. However, buying the stupid ticket is most stressful part. An hour later and 3 switched of trains, up and down stairs with my gear I finally arrive at the last metro station. A 10 min walk later in the fall crisp air and at 2 PM, I arrive at ACF headquarters…and it is big! Some 120 staff work there. I am greeted at the front and welcomed in. Hello Kevin from Canada, welcome to Paris! we have been expecting you!! I am taken to several offices and introduced to several key people. I hand over my passport and photos, so they can process my Visa to get into Afghanistan. I am given $50 Euros for food expenses while in Paris….that’s nothing!! I could blow that easy on one dinner. I look at them and ask, where the rest? They laugh. I have to accept that I am not with the government any more and the NGO world is not as generous. So begins my orientation to the world of ACF. A couple of hours later I am done and arrangements are made to meet early the next day for further pre-deployment briefings. Now, to find my hotel, which they apologized in advance if it not to my liking??? Although they said it was a 15 minute walk, I got lost walking (easy to do in Paris) and it ended up to be an hour later – tired, back packs getting heavy and becoming grumpy. I must admit the Paris folks were trying to be helpful and I appreciated it, but they just did not know their directions. I finally found the hotel, called the ‘Formula 1’, which was huge….so, how people could not know, is beyond me? The hotel was essentially a massive dormitory and for $46 Euros, probably the best price in Paris, if you like being on the cheap. The rooms are very small, sparse, with a small tv (no English) and a sink. The shared washrooms are down the hall. There are 2 small single beds and are very hard. I went out for dinner, to a Chinese place down the street and spent my first $20 Euros on a sparse dinner of rice, chicken and veggies. Came back to the little room and proceeded to fall asleep for the next 12 hours.

Vancouver

Arrived into Vancouver, rented a car and went down town to meet Jordan and his 3 friends, spent the remaining day hanging out with them, eating and drinking beers. I took them up to the top of Grouse Mtn, overlooking Vancouver. It was great, so tranquil with the smells of pine forests. Back to their hotel and said goodbye to them, trying not to choke up. I checked into my hotel and quickly went to sleep on my last night in Canada for the next 6 months.

Sunday morning (0600) check in at the United Airline counter. Presented my passport, then asked by the agent where was my return ticket back to Canada from Paris, as I did not have one, which meant that I could not fly…. Murphy’s Law…. they wanted me to buy a flight home for $3000. I explain my situation but to no avail. I phoned the Montreal office of ACF, of course it’s Sunday and nobody is there to answer the phone. Now I am kind of freaking….what to do has the plane will soon be leaving and I needed to be on that plane. An hour later and fortunately for me , another agent comes to ask what all the trouble is and goes over my story again. My saving grace turns out to be the arranged ticket from Paris to Dubai that I am holding. And for some unknown reason to me, this was acceptable to her and I was finally given my ticket to Paris with 30 minutes to spare. Paris here I come!!